Stylish with Substance

This is just a pret-a-porter dress by Chloe, but ... uumm ... (well here it is)

It looks like a towel (dress) with big bow-like wings on it. And that model looks so uncomfortable!

How would you improve this dress?

[caption id="attachment_1262" align="alignright" width="245" caption="Phoebe Philo in Fall 2005"][/caption]

Phoebe Philo is back, but not to bring smooshy leather idealism again to Chloé, but as the next creative director of fellow French fashion house, Céline.

LVMH Moët Hennessy confirmed to WWD exclusively on Sept. 4th. The magazine immediately published the news, but in short, almost byte form - so here you get a detailed reaction with enough information to match...

Despite creating arguably the world's favorite IT bag with the company, Philo left the design world completely 2 years ago to stay home with a new baby, who's now 3 with a younger sibling of 18 months*. The deal with Céline that appealed to the new mom is that she would be allowed to stay and work in her home town of London, and not the headquarters of both houses, Paris, France. (*Source) Why the success her Paddington and other beloved purses being responsible for Chloé's clout of today didn't cause Phoebe to merely take temporary maternity leave, with parent company, Richemont, offering this same compromise is beyond me. (Are they so evil as to obligate themselves to pinch pennies and ditch the finer skins of life that Philo inspired in the manufacturing?)

[caption id="attachment_1261" align="alignright" width="201" caption="OUT: Ivana Omazic"][/caption]

Some journalists claim this will be a boost needed for Céline, a company recently faltering, even with Ivana Omazic showing hints at purse innovations recently. One being a handbag with a large mirror on the outside for the veinest of fashionistas - its (lack of) level of stylishness contrasting that cool tongue-in-chic, however. I do hope to see Omazic work on her potential for whomever else she designs, but who?--the fashion business is short-tempered and impatient. Was she sacked, or did she leave Céline and her budding creations and ideas behind by her own choice? LVMH simply said in a statement that she's leaving after three years. (Real loyal parting words, eh?) It must be a tough break to make, for example Philo will nevermore have her Paddington.

[caption id="attachment_1276" align="aligncenter" width="230" caption="Céline's " Watch Me, Mirror" by Omazic"][/caption]

So how excited can we be for Phoebe's purses of the future at Céline? I'm a mix of skeptical and wildly excited. Firstly, Phoebe mentioned to The Herald Tribune she'll re-invent and evolve her fashion aesthetic (they printed no exact quote). It's not to say that a giant padlock isn't exactly an immature style preference, yet I hope to recognize what I do love from the designer in whatever the old self she keeps. And even that definitely leaves promise that coming Céline bags will sport the most divine leather - especially with their current sub-line named "cuir sulky" which is literally intended to be "slouchy leather". Sounds like Philo is the best choice for Céline, therefore I'm not surprised they fought for her.

Céline has two other handbag sub-lines that bring excitement to my daydreams of what my Paddy-designer might do. 1. a "Watch Me __" (move, work, play, dance, etc.) named range that gives opportunity for fun - however currently the styles are mostly dull. 2. "Tourbillon" which represents the "swirl" of their own pattern. Far from monogram, it is however a sturdy coated canvas for everyday (even chores like gardening) with a lower pricetag - swoon. Not much leather there, but I have had curiosity as to what Chloé would do with signature - and Philo is to me the quintessential Chloé designer.

(Now we just need to end this recession and bring back our economy so I can attain a piece [and more to follow] of this fashion history from a favorite designer for my collecting status. [I need more than a price decrease, I myself need a "raise".)

What about Ivana Omazic though? Perhaps she's even been inspired to create her own namesake brand - which is something one doesn't easily leave for others to takeover and break. And that reminds me of my true and long-held hope; that a Phoebe Philo collection, itself, will appear - although with no Phoebe-done Paddies, it's still second in my prayers to her to re-joining Chloé and putting her stamp on the Bay, the Heloise - and bring back 2006 leather. (Did you know that the soft Paddy leather "left" after Philo did the same year of 2006? Um-hum.) But I do think my third choice definitely is now Céline - hopefully, third dream come true's a charm.

Moving on is not always moving up, though, I want to note that when Stella McCartney left Chloé, making way for Phoebe to helm, she chose to produce *icky* "pleather" (ok ok "high quality" vegan imitation leather [yeah right]) purses for her own "dear" name. Uh - downgrade?

Surely that means Phoebe was an upgrade to Chloé, with her seemingly great affinity for  using (and not wasting) lovely skins, and I hope she'll remain the queen of quality hide, bringing that to Céline for now. Even if she can't make a single suggestion for new versions of my favorite bag, I'm not too saddened by that; the best re-invention of the Paddy yet will be featured in a coming post. (Plus I must feature an article comparing Omazic's designs with the Paddington styles, highlighting improvements this maestro could make, with some hopeful merging with the basics of the satchel.)

Maybe new brains' re-workings of IT bags is part of what keeps them fresh throughout the years, even? There's always hope where's there are more/new talented minds.

And that reminds me further of my frustrations with the biz's game of fashionable chairs - the designer of Chloé's Spring 2008 collection, Paulo Melim Andersson, made bags that brought more excitement to me than I'd felt since the classic Paddy (or perhaps the chocolate croc), yet he was axed (soon after the Fall '08 show, also around the time the Spring bags debut at stores).

What is up? Am I out of synch with the style times?--since I am afterall still in love, and always will be, with a bag many turned their noses from long ago. Despite its original status and being the cause of the entire IT bag phenomenon, most but the hugest Chloé fans atually now merely see it as the biggest *fad* bag - a time-sensitive style that's OUT with the trash. Le Sigh.

The entire angle of this article shows that I'm in love with a designer of the past. Yet every one of her fans is, as well - and recycling is a lot of what fashion is. The only reason this new designer for Céline is such a story is because of her particular work with that other brand years ago - and we all know most's fave of her work - I am not alone. My readers are with me, even if not for the Paddington, perhaps just the leather, maybe the Silverado, or even the Edith, or...........

It proves it certain, this historybooks designer retains her following, and is sure to to a great designer of the future, as well.

Welcome back, dear Phoebs - and I wonder - new/contemporary/young/hip baby bags to be born?

Collections to look forward to:

• There is conflicting information, or at least confusing wording, around the web as to when Philo's first collection for Céline will show, but to my understanding it will likely first be walked down the runway in October 2009 for Paris Fashion Week Spring 2010, after being completed in design and mockup next March. (When does she start?!) Phoebe is set to get to work this October!


• See the last of Ivana Omazic's design for Céline in the Thurs., 2nd of Oct. show during Paris Fashion Week.


• Chloé's Spring 2009 collection will debut on Oct. 4th, also in Paris.

Humorous Foot(ankle-bag)note: If you wanted to read about Phoebe Philo's clothing designs, take note; you're reading a handbag blog! ;-)

Further thanks to: Wikipedia.

Chloé has put out soo many fantabulostest bags this season, it's mad! Many aren't happy with new (and recently sacked) designer, Paulo Melim's clothes, but come on - those bags! I'd hire him if I didn't do all my own designing and well, owned a huge company. ;-) Just for bags, of course. To me, this will be Chloé's big year, aside from 2005 - there are just way too many bags I'm dying to blog about, even with my newer philosophy to stick to only the most notable (good or bad).

So yes, I'm behind this Spring... and where to start? Well why not where I have a little pun already popped into my mind - even though it's just an update on my favorite, and I recently blogged about the Paddington, but oh well! It's a fave for a reason, perhaps.

Yes, the Paddy, that I have dubbed...

The Pattenton

Basically, the Paddy's out in patent now, which actually is notable for a bag known largely for its smooshy leather. I say since they recently failed to keep up with the quality, why not just go patent? Not forever, but it's amusing, aaaaaaand surprisingly gorge! I love the matching tone on the new padlocks, too, and that blue is giving me cravings! Other tiny details were altered, as well, which always keeps the bag-candy browsing interesting ... even if I can't afford such a bag right now. And it's not one I can easily "copy" and make, either. But that does just keep the love deeper.

If you want to and can snatch one up - good luck - Paddies are widely sold out, at least online.

Even though the Paddington is my favorite designer bag, it's not for the lock. In fact, it's quite despite it's more silly features and is largely about those side belts.

But the silliness does not end at that huge padlock, I suddenly this morning found myself pondering why the Chloé brand is so insistent on using only the silver-tone (nickel?) metal for their zippers, no matter how aged-brassy the rest of the hardware is. Apparently it glides better - but the problem is the bag is still a pain in the tush to zip up! Half the time those unsecured ends come undone.

I'd say give us a little less "quality" metal and give us a feature that will actually help speed up the toting of this purse, because most of us just "fling the lock over", and we could use at least one easier step.

... On the other hand, it kind of tickles me that the bags may seem fake to some when they are the true ones (however I've never seen a matchy-matchy fake, sigh).

Now I must go remind "Choccy" I love her. ("Mama didn't mean it!")

The IT Chloé Heloise at Net-a-Porter has lowered in price from $1,670 to $1,169. Pretty good difference! I almost want to jump, but I think I'll wait for a bit more of a decline. If you don't want to miss a shot by any chance, it is absolutely at a fine price now!

I begin a new year of content, coming back from technical and then personal problems, with a reflection upon the greatest hand styles from the last. Without further ado...

#10: Red Jersey Roxanne Bag by Mulberry for Gap

When an IT bag goes discount and it's legit, there must be huge hype. Not only is that true for this Roxanne bag by Mulberry and Gap, but 50% of the proceeds go to a charity fighting AIDs. What could be hotter than this product Red bag, then? Made out of jersey fabric, it still looks just as haute. Watch out though, it's only available in one store (a Gap flagship) in London. Burned?

#9: The Matelasse by Balenciaga

Edgy and carefree Balenciaga bags suddenly have someone in the family with a classier, sophisticated style. Still holding on to the signature elements, the quilted, classic Matelasse was a major new style to come out in 2007. It could not be left off the list, especially since I covet one so. In 2008, I plan for a Balenciaga (or 2) to be mine.

#8: Monogram Canvas Mirage Griet by Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton's best bags are their classics, but of course. But new bags can be much more exciting. So the house's best new bags are the ones with modern details meeting classic lines. It's all there in the Mirage collection, especially this Griet bag. The LV Monogram Canvas Mirage Griet is one of the ultimate Vuitton bags right now, also winning our poll for top bag of 2007's fall/winter season!

#7: Damier Azur Collection (Speedy 30) by Louis Vuitton

Biggest LV debut of a 2007 collection for its popularity, waiters list and the fact that it was a whole (sort of) new pattern collection, was the Damier Azur. Comprised of the classic Damier checkerboard, now in white and light blue (classicly in brown shades), this line actually debuted in November 2006, but it was a 2007 resort collection. (Pictured here on Vuitton's Speedy 30, a very popular bag.)

 

#6: The Foldover (Mahala) Clutch by Jimmy Choo

Ushering in a new era of vastly oversized clutch bags intended for day carry is none other than the Jimmy Choo Mahala Foldover Clutch. Not only was this a top bag of 2007, but it's a milestone bag in the history of purses! Add IT bag status to that with many celebs carrying it and its details being copied all over the inspired brands/stores and we have a verified dream bag.

#5: The Riveting Collection by Louis Vuitton

Riveting indeed, almost all of the pursie community was clamoring over this little LV line covered in strategically placed studs, with sewn together (or on top of?) rectangles of leather or lined-up monogram canvas. The alignment, the details, the ... exclusivity of this Limited collection! This time modern all the way, the only thing classic about the bags was probably just the monogram. This bag will surely be a landmark for the year 2007 in handbag history.

 

#4: The Coffer by Miu Miu

A Miu Miu to rival Prada and win hands down. What a feat by this sister line of Miuccia's. Featuring matelasse quilting and double flaps over supple leather, this bag had many women drooling. It might have even stood as a turning point for the trendier line. Who says Prada is better than Miu Miu? I don't!

#3: The Downtown Bag by Yves Saint Laurent

Practically self-describing as the bag for urbanites (with money, though) is the Downtown tote by Yves Saint Laurent. Seen on celebrities from summer through autumn, it's still more the unique shaping of this tote that makes the bag surpass any inspired copies by far. Quality and branding aside, it caused this bag to win out over "competitors".

#2: The Bay Bag by Chloé (especially in quilted)

Hailed as the biggest bag of the year by die-hard Chloé fans, one of the hardest to die fan groups among designers, the Bay was hu-u-u-uge for 2007. Unique, classy, and in so many wonderful colors, this was an easy purse to fall in love with. With Chloé consistently inspiring their fans to propel the name's styles to the top of the IT lists every year since 2005, starting with the Paddington, an IT by Chloé is an IT indeed.

#1: I'm Not a Plastic Bag by Anya Hindmarch

Marked up on eBay, way up; super limited edition; yet good for the environment with an eco message. It was the "I'm Not a Plastic Bag" tote by Anya Hindmarch. This is the bag that helped drive the movement of re-usable grocery totes into a fashionable craze. For that this silly little bag does get a lot of credit. It is the queen of all market totes, in a year of them blossoming.

Actually, there's a new Paddington with lock on a chain, or off the chain, even if in a ghetto-fabulous way.

Other new features of the Paddington Capsule Satchel by Chloé, are a front flap pocket, ID-tag-like zipper pulls, C-shaped rings on adjustable straps, and the design of the smaller padlock and key, themselves.

You know I'm starting to see potential for classin' up the bag when paired with the right ensemble!

So far I see this will be available in "elephant" tan, black (noir), blue nuit (navy), and vanilla.

Owwwwwww, my designer-purse-ban hold over me is weakening a bit for this bag. What can I sell to afford its $1,780 pricetag of the tan or the more beautiful charcoal at -- eek! -- $1,980? Ummm, Gucci... ummm... other Chloés... ummm... ...

See more photos below..

A new, interesting Chloé Edith is here again. Ahh, refreshing. With a medium-length thick shoulder strap with double buckles on each side, this tan leather bag features a true-buckled/magnetic flap closure a double buckled pouch pocket and a zippered pocket with oversized pull. It's all signature style. Measuring 10.5" x 10", this IT-variation Mini Edith Satchel will throw itself over your shoulder if you've got $1190 for it.

Chloé Debbie bags' main feature is a large zipper, much like the Bay, but the actual zipper pull closely resembles that from the Edith (last year's IT bag). An equally large feature, yet less prominently unique, is its clip flap closure. (That's also similar to the Edith's buckle flap closure.) The bags all also boast a contrast-colored stripe on the flaps.

Styles on Neiman Marcus .com consist of (1) a shoulder flap satchel with double front zipper pockets, (2) an east/west shoulder tote sans pockets and (3) a divine looking north south hobo with double front pockets (best of them ALL in cream).

Colors are brown, tan, cream and yellow. Prices from $1,120 to $1,130; not bad.

Shop Chloé Debbies on Neiman Marcus .com.

All photos below: